made in Modna - l'aceto balsamico tradizionale HISTORICITY 'OF BALSAMIC
A production of traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena were and still are in the provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia, with the exception of mountain areas and the Apennines, as the microclimate of sites as well the 300 meters in height does not have the characteristics required for the production of this product. These are the areas where for centuries ruled the lords of the Este family.
is assumed a random birth of balsamic vinegar, probably a certain amount of cooked grape, known as saba, a sweetener used in the cuisine of Modena, was forgotten in a jar home and found only after some 'time when it already showed signs of acidification started.
E 'of a certain Donizone, Monaco Benedictine who lived in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, the first written on the vinegar. In his chronicle "Mathildis Life", tells how, during a stopover in Piacenza in the year 1046, the King and future Emperor Enrico III of Franconia, sent his messenger to the Marquis Boniface of Canossa, the father of Matilda, (quote) "because he wanted to quell'aceto that he was praised and it was in the fortress of Canossa." This story is not mentioned the word "vinegar", but we are witness to what already quell'aceto was then considered important to the point of making a gift to an emperor who, while coming from so far away, who knew of its existence.
The nineteenth-century chronicler Antonio Modena Vallisnieri referred to as the Court of Este were stored in vinegar barrels as early as 1228, at the time of Obizzo II, ruler of Ferrara, Modena and Reggio Emilia.
A volume of the ducal court in 1556 entitled "Fat," provides a thorough classification of types of vinegar according to the different job opportunities. It concludes that at the Este court there were already very clear ideas on the different qualities of balsamic vinegar and that only target the best one for people of rank and occasion important.
In 1598 Modena became the capital of the Duchy and documentary evidence of this period are even more explicit involvement of the ducal court of the product.
E 'of 1597 a letter from the prosecutor of the court to direct John Francis Vezzali general factor of Mr. Ercole Este court concerning the acquisition of Trebbiano grape for the ducal vinegar. The following year the duke Giovanni Battista Contugi governor, in a letter to the Duke's House warns that he found the grapes suited to accommodate the vinegar. The fact that the Duke was so attracted by the balmy means that obviously had a taste of a mature, so there had barrels of vinegar to court già da lungo tempo.
In base alle testimonianze scritte, troviamo citato per la prima volta il termine "balsamico" soltanto in un registro della cantina ducale del 1747; in questo si ordina il trasloco dell'aceto da una cantina segreta alla camera del prato, luogo storico per il balsamico, situata nel torrione ad ovest della facciata del palazzo ducale.
E' una consuetudine quella di fare dell'aceto balsamico dono prezioso alle persone di riguardo. Documenti e materiale epistolare ce lo confermano.
Dicevamo che il termine "balsamico" appare per la prima volta solo nel 1747, e tale termine deriva dalle proprietà medicinali inizialmente attribuite a questo particolare aceto. Vari documenti e la tradizione confermano questo aspetto dicotomico, cioè l'impiego dell'aceto balsamico, in campo medicinale prima e gastronomico poi.
Nel 1508, Lucrezia Borgia, dando alla luce in Ferrara il figlio Ercole II, ne sperimentò le proprietà terapeutiche proprio al momento del parto.
Durante la pestilenza del 1630, l'aceto servì come (cito) "preservativo al contagio" e contro "l'ammorbamento dell'aria"( preservarsi con abluzioni, con gargarismi, utilizzandolo come cordiale, come tonico, contro l'aria infetta lasciandone cadere alcune gocce sulle braci del camino). E diverse sono le prove che testimoniano l'uso del balsamico come rimedio alla
peste. Una per tutte, una lettera di certo signore Mongardino al conte Molza dated September 4, 1630, where data are just suggestions and guidelines on the use of vinegar.
Confirmation on treating inflammation of the mucous membranes is given to us from documents relating to the Duke of Modena, Francis IV (1779 - 1846) who always traveled with a box of the precious liquid in your car, used as a comfort to his poor health. The popular tradition
balsamic vinegar gives more unique characteristics, its aphrodisiac virtues. Virtue always the tradition that had already been validly tested by Isabella Gonzaga, as he later said that Giacomo Casanova knew the magical effects.
Over the years, the vinegar balsamico rimase protagonista nella storia del Ducato di Modena, seguendolo nelle sue alterne fortune. Sempre il cronista Antonio Rovatti, in un suo manoscritto del 1796, descrive la vendita per conto della Repubblica Francese (cito) "dell'Aceto Balsamico dell'ex Duca custodito entro 36 barili di un quarto per caduna, nel terzo torrione del palazzo ex Ducale verso San Domenico", la già citata camera del prato, nella torre sul lato a ponente rivolta verso la Chiesa di San Domenico.
E' probabile che gli acquirenti, fossero tutti appartenenti ai ceti abbienti, quindi, forse, ancora oggi, può esservi rimasto del prezioso aceto anche se non è possibile identificarlo; infatti Napoleone fece cancellare dalle botti tutti gli stemmi esistenti and we do not have documents proving the new owners. We know for certain is that not all of the vinegar sold the duke went on that occasion. In fact, September 2, 1817 the large windows of the room of the lawn were reopened to coincide with the visit of Prince Metternich, who knew the precious balsamic vinegar. The Duke in fact, during his working visits to Vienna, had extolled the qualities of vinegar, and now the Austrian Chancellor asking to taste the best.
In those years the trade in the duchy was rather neglected, for fear that the Duke had the resourcefulness of the mercantile middle class, or that favored the old nobility (ie landowners) or the people. To This is why the trade balance was in serious difficulty, even if you began to see some glimmer of light, at least as regards trade with the Hapsburg Empire. Also from
Antonio Rovan, in "Chronicle Modenese", we learn that there was a "League Customs Austro-Este" in relation to transactions with the Lombardo Veneto, well, in trade relations with the Lombard Venetian balsamic vinegar displayed in the front row among the products exported.
After the plebiscite of 1860 the producers Modenese not interposed a long time to recover from the hardships that the great change had produced and immediately participated in important exhibitions in Italy and abroad.
1863 Agricultural Exhibition Modena, 1872
Exposure to industrial agricultural Vignola,
1878 International Exhibition in Paris,
1888 Exhibition in Bologna, Emilia, 1888 Exposition
Vatican in Rome.
On May 4, 1859 will reopen the windows of the House of Prato. This time, after the plebiscite, the new king arrived in Modena Vittorio Emanuele II and Prime Minister Count Camillo Benso di Cavour. Unfortunately, this visit was a prelude to the end of the famous Duke of vinegar. Cavour ordered it to transfer the best barrels in the castle of Moncton, where, far from his home and the balmy climate will be left abandoned to die.
It is this same period, the request Winemaker Casale Monferrato Ottavio Ottavi, lawyer Francesco Modena Aggazzotti, expert lover, clarifications for the conduct of a vinegar factory. Aggazzotti respond with a letter whose contents, which describes the procedure for the preparation of balsamic vinegar, from Modena to become the "breviary" care and conduct of the vinegar.
traditional balsamic vinegar production
Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena in the quiet couple of vinegar through the technique of pouring and the many years of aging and aging, to come to be available in two types, diversified according to the period of aging: more than twelve years for the product "classic" and over i venticinque per quello "extra vecchio". La materia prima per ottenere l'Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, seguendo il disciplinare di produzione, è ottenuta dalle uve prodotte dai vitigni che tradizionalmente vengono coltivati nella provincia di Modena, principalmente uve Trebbiano e Lambrusche ma anche vitigni meno noti.
L'articolo 4 del decreto ministeriale del 5 aprile 1983 avverte che le condizioni ambientali e di coltura dei vigneti, destinati alla produzione del mosto, devono essere quelle tradizionali della zona, e, comunque atte a conferire alle uve ed al mosto derivato, le specifiche caratteristiche. Le zone migliori sono quelle situate nella fascia ai piedi delle colline dell'Appennino modenese.
Tutto ciò that the ancients rightly saw through the experience it has been proven by subsequent studies, namely, that makes the late ripening grapes Trebbiano grape suitable for the production of traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena because of its high sugar concentration and that characteristics of the soil in which prosperous (slightly calcareous and rich in macro and micro elements), the climate in which it is born, (the transition between the Mediterranean and continental) influence the composition of the wort and the activity of microorganisms acting on the transformation acetic anhydride.
The analysis carried out show that the Trebbiano grape is particularly receptive to the establishment of yeasts and acetic bacteria, making it ideal to production of fine vinegars.
The steps necessary to obtain the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena goes through four phases: the grape harvest, pressing, the must cooking and aging. The grape harvest is carried out in autumn when the relationship between sugar and acidity is higher. The choice of the grapes is done in vineyards located in areas healthy. The harvesting is done mostly by hand, with wicker baskets or wooden boxes, to ensure the integrity of the grapes before pressing. Uva fit is also the result of a proper winter pruning of the vine before harvesting.
The crushing of grapes, or mechanical manual, he should still be soft. The oldest producer in the crushing barefoot, used to stand on two rods resting on the ground outside the vat to be lighter, or did do the same for children. This is to achieve a low level of polyphenols (eg tannins, pigments, etc., contained in the solid parts of the cluster as the skins, pips, the stems), which hinder the process of acidification. The must then be decanted and filtered, that is separated from solids and impurities, then you must make a clarification with a clarification and skimming. In the past, the filter was obtained through natural fiber bags retain impurities, Today we also use other materials. A good must be obtained from the use of ripe grapes, with a fair value of the relationship between sugar and acidity. Normally, the sugars are controlled through saccharimeter Babo, a hydrometer calibrated to read directly to the amount of sugar in the wort. Babo
1 degree is 1% glucose. In areas of the province of Modena, the degree of Babo Trebbiano grape must normally hovers at 18 degrees.
Cooking must be done almost simultaneously with the pressing or at most twenty-four hours later, to avoid the beginning of the fermentation. The must is cold put in a pot made of copper or stainless steel and is baked for diverse ore a fuoco diretto senza coperchi, fino a raggiungere una concentrazione variante fra il 30 ed il 70 %,(con mosto cotto ricco di zuccheri, da uva di buona annata in zona collinare è ottimale una riduzione del liquido del 50%). Normalmente la concentrazione ottimale è tale quando si riscontri una gradazione di circa 28/33 gradi Babo. Dopo avere fatto bollire il mosto per circa mezz'ora, la temperatura deve rimanere all'incirca di 80/90 gradi centigradi. Le alte temperature di bollitura per lungo tempo sono sconsigliate onde evitare la caramellizzazione degli zuccheri che, concentrandosi, potrebbero dare quel tipico sapore di bruciato. Con un colino o mestolo bucato è buona cosa schiumare le fecce che si formano in superficie. I flavandioli o leucoantociani , cioè pigmenti contenuti nel mosto, durante la bollitura in ambiente acido si trasformano in parte in antociani ,determinando la conseguente colorazione scura del liquido. Il contenuto zuccherino del mosto procura un alimento ricco ai zycosaccharomyceti che, a loro volta, produrranno un abbondante nutrimento agli acetobatteri, responsabili della trasformazione acetica. Il mosto cotto, dopo essere stato raffreddato in mastelli di legno o di acciaio inox, viene stivato in damigiane di vetro per diversi mesi, al fine di decantare fecce e mucillagini.
La fase dell'invecchiamento è forse la più delicata e personale, bisogna seguire scrupolosamente certe regole il più delle volte tramandate solo oralmente di generazione in generazione. Luogo ideale per l'acetaia è il sottotetto delle abitazioni essendo ventilato ed esposto alle temperature estreme tipiche della zona di produzione. Il caldo torrido dell'estate favorisce la maturazione e l'evaporazione del prodotto, il freddo gelido dell'inverno rallenta l'attività dei microrganismi e permette la decantazione e la limpidezza. Tendenza comune è quella di avere una serie di botti di legni diversi con capacità decrescente, nella botte grande si ha il prodotto giovane, nella piccola quello maturo. Generalmente si utilizzano batterie di vaselli con capacità decrescente circa del 20-30% l'una dall'altra. Ad esempio una batteria di 5 botti avrà: 60-50-40-30-20 litri di capacità. Oppure: 75-60-50-40-30-24-16-10 liters. As for the woods the general approach is to place barrels at the beginning with softwood, which favors the processes of evaporation and acidification, hardwoods come in small packages for long term conservation of the mature product.
Good acetaia is always constructed by a battery of barrels (casks called in dialect) decreasing in size. The mother of oak barrel, 60 liter, cooked must is placed here every year, and one part vinegar is transferred into a smaller barrel from about 50 liters of chestnut wood, from which in turn is picked vinegar to put it in a barrel of cherry from 40 liters of here in a 30 liter keg in ash, and finally is tucked the last 20 liter keg in mulberry. From barrel it is collected each year a small amount (few liters) of vinegar ready for use.
Among the woods used sometimes also appears as juniper and black locust. Refilling and topping up of barrels is generally done in winter, when all microbiological activity have slowed.
to start a acetaia need to have an inoculum of microorganisms (zygosaccharomyceti and acetic acid bacteria) that are typically drawn from batteries of traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena in the course of maturation.
Year after year, in the autumn will bring the right level of the liquid has evaporated that smaller barrel, with the content della botte precedente e così via fino ad arrivare alla prima botte, quella più grande che verrà rincalzata con l'aggiunta di mosto, cotto nell'autunno precedente.
Da questo momento il tempo gioca un ruolo importante per la qualità, le sostanze contenute nelle botti piccole evolvono lentamente affinando l'armonicità e le caratteristiche organolettiche del prodotto.
Con l'invecchiamento l'Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena in fase di maturazione assume caratteri di rotondità ed equilibrio tra sostanze fisse e volatili, aumentando la quantità di residui e di zuccheri, mantenendo un'acidità costante. Tra la fine di ottobre e la fine di marzo si è sicuri che l'attività fermentativa è still, this is a good time to do the pouring and tuck in (annual). Pouring means the passage of liquid from a cask of most other smaller capacity, topping up significantly the level of a botte.Le two operations are closely related, except in the largest barrel shall be used only where the topping up with cooked grape must.
It 'important to check the health of the barrels. Thanks to the rectangular hole located above the casks, the bung, the review is carried olfactory feel any abnormalities, and visual inspection of the surface of the liquid and the barrel to find out the possible presence of floating mothers, mold or other defects due to the development of aerobic microorganisms. Last question is that of taste, takes place in all barrels. Opening of the barrels, for reasons of hygiene is good practice to put a tightly woven gauze clean. In the old vinegar in place of the gauze, you can still see bung on the characteristic rock of the river, as well as seal and protect the opening of the barrel, eroded and corrupted by the fumes of the product during ripening, dropping bits of limestone that dabbing the excess acidity (tradition has it that the stone comes from the river Panaro).
At the end of the period of aging, which may be from 12 to 25 years and older, the vinegar is bottled and its quality is then evaluated by expert tasters to establish the contribution of the PDO.
The product, completed the rigorous course of maturation and aging that must take place in the area of \u200b\u200borigin marked, to maintain quality and ensure that the control and traceability, must be packaged in accordance with local fair and consistent in glass lens 100 ml. The "white capsule" contains vinegar aged at least 12 years, the "gold cap" does contain vinegar, extra old with at least 25 years of age.
The packages must appear the following explanatory material:
List of ingredients in descending order of importance;
name of the producer and / or distribution;
number of production licenses (license API);
Date.
LEGISLATION: APPROVAL AND DISCIPLINARY DOP
As regards the legislation on Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena vinegar, we can say that referring to the geographical name "Modena", for a long time, not being subject to any kind of coding standard legislation, was produced in different way and also according to the liberal interpretations of each on the authenticity of tradition.
Only in 1965, the Presidential Decree 162, Article 46, found for the first time the term "Modena" placed to indicate clearly the type of merchandise that features the vinegar worthy of the name should have been. In
Ministerial Decree of 3 December 1965 the Ministry of Agriculture and Ministry of Health, these features are specified together with the technical standards of production. At that time, producers are not yet rooted in the concept of designation of origin, it was thought that the setting of the sun production techniques would be insufficient to protect the product from imitations. You will have to wait
Decree April 5, 1983, in which the product is defined not only in terms of merchandise, but also from the standpoint of the defense of the name "Modena". E ' that enshrined the principle that the traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena has to be produced in Modena and Reggio Emilia, Modena from raw materials. They set the technical parameters of production.
With Law April 3, 1986 n.93 Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena is classified under the seasoning. The same states also have ordinances that regulated specific appellations of origin refer to the products respectively Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena and Reggio Emilia. (Decree of the Ministry of Agriculture and Forests February 9, 1987, Decree of the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry March 3, 1987).
In 2000 he was recognized as a product designation of origin protetta DOP.
DISCIPLINARE: - Aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena -
Denominazione: la denominazione di origine protetta - Aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena - è riservata al prodotto che risponda alle condizioni ed ai requisiti stabiliti nel presente disciplinare di produzione.
1.Base ampelografica: L' Aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena deve essere ottenuto da mosti di uve provenienti dai vigneti composti in tutto o in parte dai seguenti vitigni:
Lambrusco (tutte le varietà e cloni);
Ancellotta;
Trebbiano;
Sauvignon;
Sgavetta;
Berzemino;
Occhio di Gatta;
Il prodotto di cui all'art.1 può, altresì, essere ottenuto grapes from the vineyards registered with the DOC in the province of Modena.
2.Zona Production: The grapes for the production of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena to be produced in the traditional territory of the province of Modena.
3.Caratteristiche the raw material: The grapes for the production of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena must ensure that the title must be at least 15 degrees saccarometrici and the maximum production yield per hectare of vineyard, specializing in culture, may not exceed the 160 tons.
4.Metodo Processor: The fresh musts for the production of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena can be subjected to a process of settling and cooling purché non si provochi il congelamento della parte acquosa.
E' vietata l'utilizzazione di mosti muti e/o mosti addizionati di qualsiasi additivo e sostanza. E' vietata l'aggiunta di qualsiasi sostanza non prevista nel presente disciplinare. Il prodotto che, a giudizio del detentore ha acquisito le caratteristiche minime previste dal presente disciplinare per l'immissione al consumo, è sottoposto ad esame analitico ed organolettico
5.Caratteristiche al consumo: L'Aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena, all'atto dell'immissione al consumo deve rispondere alle seguenti caratteristiche:
colore: bruno scuro, carico e lucente;
densità: apprezzabile in una corretta, scorrevole sciropposità;
Bouquet: characteristic, fragrant, complex but well balanced, penetrating and persistent, obvious but pleasant and harmonious acidity
taste: characteristic of balsamic vinegar, as well as through the centuries has been consecrated by the tradition of unchanging continuity, sweet and sour, well with noticeable acidity balanced with a slight aroma produced by the tangent of the influence of the different woods used for barrels made of vinegar factory, live, free, full, Velvet, intense and persistent, in good harmony with the character olfactory own;
total acidity : not less than 4.5 degrees (in grams of acetic acid per 100 grams of product), density at 20 ° C not less to 1,240.
Verification of analytical and organoleptic characteristics of the designation shall, at their request, on all batches before being marketed
6.Esami analytical, sensory and bottling: The successful completion of the analytical and sensory condition binding in order to market the product with the name provided in Article 1. The bottling of the product deemed eligible following completion of the procedure referred to in this article, take place within the administrative territory of the province of Modena. Containers are packed Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena must be unique in form, can provide la conservazione della qualità ed il prestigio del prodotto stesso e devono rispondere alle misure e caratteristiche tecniche qui di seguito elencate: forma: sferica con base rettangolare in vetro massiccio; composizione: in vetro di colore bianco cristallino; capacità: cl 10 o cl 20, o cl 40. La forma artistica del contenitore è opera del designer Giugiaro. Ad imbottigliamento effettuato, l'Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena deve essere corredato di un contrassegno non riutilizzabile, a serie numerata, apposto sul contenitore in modo tale che il contenuto non possa essere estratto senza la rottura del contrassegno stesso.
7.Designazione e presentazione: La designazione in etichetta della denominazione Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale Modena must be made in clear, indelible and the same size and colorimetry and large enough to be distinguished from any claim that appears on the label. The designation of the name in art. 1 must be immediately followed by the phrase "protected designation of origin" in length and written in a font size not less than 3 / 4 of those used for the designation of the name. The labeling will also appear in full and also in the language of the country of destination, the Community symbol "protected designation of origin" or "DOP". To the description in art. 1 is forbidden to add anything other than that expressly provided for in this specification, including adjectives such as "extra", "end", "selected", "selected", "reserves", "top", "classic" or similar. The term "traditional" label can be repeated in the same field of view that shows the name in letters no more than three times those used to indicate the denomination. E 'banned for Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena indicate any reference to the year of production, may the words "extra old" for the product that has been aged no less than 25 years. Any information to consumers on how to establish the location and cuisine of the product must figurare in una controetichetta o pendaglio o in una parte nettamente separata dall'etichetta principale e devono essere tali da non indurre il consumatore in errore su una qualità particolare, sulla metodologia di produzione o sul reale invecchiamento del prodotto. Le norme di designazione e presentazione di cui al presente articolo non sono sostitutive di quelle previste dalle vigenti norme comunitarie e nazionali in materia di etichettatura dei prodotti alimentari.
Legame geografico: E' il frutto della trasformazione lenta di un unico prodotto di partenza: il mosto ottenuto da uve provenienti da vitigni tradizionalmente coltivati nella provincia di Modena e cotto a fuoco diretto. La sua maturazione nei lunghi anni di invecchiamento (almeno 12) avviene senza l'aggiunta of different substances from the cooked must and no chemical or physical intervention of any kind. Among the foods most typical and characteristic of the district of Modena, the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena is of great importance to its characteristics, which combined with modest production, appear to be the elements which determine their quality and prestige in national and international . The close link between the product and the climate and soil of the area concerned is confirmed and supported the prohibition of accelerated aging techniques and / or artificial, including those based on changes induced conditions of temperature, humidity and ventilation of the vinegar. The fact that the raw material comes exclusively from vineyards within the provinces of Modena, used to produce VQPRD, makes it irreproducible outside the area planned in detail, the characteristics of traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena.
Requesting Organization:
name: consortium of producers of traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena; address: registered office c / o Chamber of Commerce - Via Ganaceto, 134 - 41100 Modena, a technical forum Corso Cavour, 60 - 41100 Modena, tel. 059/336981 - fax 059/242566
SUGGESTIONS FROM THE PAST METHODS OF TODAY
Until the mid-nineteenth century there was a unique way to produce vinegar. There were many, perhaps even one per family, made from a recipe, or more variations kept secret, handed down on the inside, from mother to daughter. Raw or cooked grape must, wine vinegar or wine only were added to varying degrees at the discretion of the producer, that it would correct the contents of his barrels with aromas, caramel, vegetable, cloves ... also varied the period of aging, even if the vinegar required to accrue long have always been considered the most valuable. Are derived from the multiplicity of the three products today.
TRADITIONAL BALSAMIC VINEGAR OF MODENA:
the production method described by Francis Agazzotti in the second half of the nineteenth century is still the reference that regulates the production of vinegar traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena, composed exclusively of cooked, aged in wooden casks for a period never less than 12 years, periodically inspected, maintained at constant levels in the barrels by decanting and reinforcements of the party evaporated, slowly cooked must with younger . The resulting product is a prized condiment, the value and the cost high, placed on the market in limited quantities and for a high consumption, the highest level.
As already mentioned, the process of creating the traditional Modena is regulated by the product specification for the Protected Designation of Origin, 15 May 2000 and preceded by the national legislation of 1983, 1986 and 1987.
BALSAMIC VINEGAR
Traditional Reggio Emilia Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia can be obtained through acetic fermentation and bio-oxidation of only cooked must, by a method very similar to that followed to produce the "twin" of Modena, but using only grapes from vineyards the province. Also, processing, refinement and aging must take place only within the same geographical area. After harvesting, the grapes is obtained for crushing, the juice fresh for the firing boilers. The procedure carries a significant reduction of fluid and a gradual concentration, up to 28-36 ° sugar. The must is cooled carboys and left to settle in for the winter. In the following spring starts the fermentation and then acetic acid oxidation, in barrels made of wood, the cheese was made with a more elongated than the Modena.
The total output of the province of Reggio Emilia is quantitatively more rice than the Modena, but excellent quality and deeply rooted in culture and heritage of civilization in the area.
The finished product is analyzed by the control members of the PDO and bottled in 100 ml bottles, tulip-shaped inverted. On the bottles, the label is affixed together with a Consortium of three different labels introduced to distinguish the characteristics and timing of product aging, "lobster" (the youngest, yet rich in acidity and aromas more determined), "silver" (medium-aging product that you appreciate more the smell and sweetness), and "gold" (even more aromatic and full of feelings that only the king spends time can bestow.
BALSAMIC VINEGAR OF MODENA
is the heir of the commercial preparations popular in rural culture, which combined saba (cooked grape must) and vinegar, in varying proportions, and then were left to grow old and aged in wooden barrels and vats.
Today, as then, the resulting product a pleasant acidity and limited cost, but also extremely variable characteristics.
Because it is less dark sauce made in traditional barrels, due to the addition of wine vinegar, has established the practice of adding caramel to make it closer to the standards of attractiveness of the area. Since March 1933 the Ministry of Agriculture has authorized the use of caramel as a natural colorant.
Balsamic Vinegar of Modena is waiting to be recognized as a product with Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), so in 2004 he was issued a ministerial decree establishing the rules of production. The balsamic vinegar of Modena is the product obtained from grape must, if subjected to fermentation or even concentrated by direct heat, with the addition of vinegar rate of at least 10 years old and with the addition of vinegar of wine. The percentage of cooked grape must and / or concentrate should never be less than 20%. The regulation also makes it clear that the operations and aging processes must take place in the provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia. Small amounts of caramel, to a maximum of 2% of the volume of the finished product, are allowed to define the color of the product. You may not, however, the addition of other substances. The development must be in wooden vessels for a minimum period of two months. The designation is reserved for the old product left to age in barrels for over 3 years. The arrangements for the package are: a bottle of minimum capacity is 250 ml, but it is permitted to use other containers for sale to the catering and professional channels.
The three products are different flavors for the final, age, price, packaging and labels, the ambitions of the market: the two traditional foods are prestigious, niche intended for sophisticated connoisseurs, while the balsamic vinegar of Modena is suitable for wide consumption, more dynamic. All are children of the same tradition, love for the good life and, above all, the same attachment to the land of the heart of the Po Valley, which with their products have helped to create widespread prosperity today.
PRICES AND QUALITY 'A COMPARISON
The traditional way because it has a long history, with delicate and complex procedures, from a barrel, communicating nuances of tastes and smells different. The batteries are history where we take a few thousand in all, their production is set to elegant tables, collectors, hobbyists, the creation of special recipes. The price, including, approximately, between 600 and 2000 euro per liter, makes it a totally unique seasoning. Regarding l’aceto balsamico non tradizionale, invece, la produzione complessiva supera i 50 milioni di litri l’anno, dei quali il 75% viene esportato, a prezzi relativamente contenuti: tra i 5 e i 50 euro al litro.
La commercializzazione del balsamico legata alla diffusione della gastronomia e della ristorazione made in italy, ha raggiunto ormai una dimensione internazionale, riscuotendo successi di diffusione in Giappone, Australia, Stati Uniti, oltre che in tutta l’Europa.
I traguardi raggiunti sul mercato sono dovuti anche agli sforzi compiuti in questi anni per migliorare il prodotto e per consentire ai consumatori di identificarne più facilmente le caratteristiche, la qualità ed i tempi di invecchiamento. Goes in this direction the work of the AIB, Italian Balsamic Tasters, an association that works sensory analysis, the refinement of tastes and aromas and setting standards of quality to distinguish the various different quality categories , in the wide range of balsamic vinegars of Modena offered to the consumer.
EVOLUTION OF CONSUMPTION AND COMPETITION IN MARKETS necessary and essential to understand the information given is stressed that the markets of balsamic vinegar of Modena and the traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena are very different in terms of quantity, quality, target, etc. ...
consumption of vinegar are stable in terms of annual quantities. Although the market is mature at this time through a bright period in terms of consumption growth in value. Especially regarding the acceleration of sales of balsamic vinegar (per capita consumption: 1.5 liters per year), that little-known product is gaining increasing popularity and sales, including on international markets, as a result of this large scale growth of mass marketing is therefore putting in light of noble kin of this product: traditional balsamic.
The success of both is due to several factors: first, the advertising of Bridges, who removed the products from the local super (the provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia) and took them to the attention of large groups of consumption, and secondly, the general rediscovery of the "gastronomical" Italian, with a growing focus on those products (which belongs to the balsamic vinegar of Modena fully) that refer to a tradition of high quality and genuine food.
from balsamic vinegar of Modena, where the cost per liter is already relatively high average, but should be distinguished the traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena is produced and aged according to criteria of ancient tradition, which costs almost prohibitive for the massmarket ( mass market).
The market is highly concentrated balsamic vinegar: Bridges covers alone in the channel hyper + super more than half of consumption in volume. Marks by the non-negligible market share, behind Fini Monari Federzoni.
In the segment of traditional balsamic vinegar, as well as bridges, have significant market shares in the free service Acetum we find him at the top of the field, with production accounting for more than 20% of the entire production of the Consorzio Aceto Balsamico di Modena, Monari Federzoni, Modenaceti, Fini and Grosoli.
commercial brands, aggressive in terms of the sale price, vinegar classic cover + super hyper in the channel a share in volume around 19%, while the minimum, although growing, balsamic vinegar.
date from the early seventies the first exports of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena in the U.S., where the product was not even known by the consumers of our country, except of course the production area. Since that time, thanks to the commercial efforts of local producers, balsamic vinegar of Modena has gained market space, gradually increasing and has become the attention of consumers most of the world.
TRADITION AND INNOVATION
At the base of the commercial success of balsamic vinegar of Modena is the cure for the quality of the product throughout the production is carried out according to antiche ricette, e con il controllo di un moderno laboratorio interno che ne garantisce la costanza e la sicurezza. Uno studio e una ricerca incessante sulle materie prime e sui metodi di lavorazione cerca di ottenere qualità sempre più elevate e di maggior soddisfazione che ne esaltino il profilo qualitativo, sensoriale e chimico-fisico.
Un prodotto così apprezzato corre il rischio di imitazioni poco pregevoli. Per distinguere gli aceti balsamici di qualità da quelli meno pregiati, l’Istituto per lo studio delle macromolecole del Cnr (consiglio nazionale delle ricerche), ha recentemente sperimentato la risonanza magnetica nucleare (nmr), con la quale si possono valutare alcune caratteristiche fondamentali del prodotto, tra cui, per l’aceto balsamico,l’invecchiamento.
Un elevato livello di servizio al Cliente, riconosciuto alle aziende del consorzio dell’aceto balsamico di Modena anche dalla regione Emilia Romagna con un premio nel 2002.
La maggior parte della produzione delle aziende produttrici di aceto balsamico di Modena viene esportata (77% circa) in 40 Paesi nel mondo. Da sottolineare, a questo proposito, che all'estero il Consorzio ha sviluppato stretti rapporti con alcune importanti Gruppi della Grande Distribuzione, maturando positive esperienze anche come fornitore di private labels.
Il Consorzio Aceto Balsamico di Modena, riunisce 17 tra le maggiori aziende del comparto e aderisce al prestigioso U.S. Vinegar Institute statunitense.
INSTITUTIONS FOR THE PROTECTION OF VINEGAR BALSAMIC
CONSORTIA
ABTM
The ABTM is one of two consortia of producers of traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena, (the other is the TABTM). Its historical role is to regulate the correctness of the properties of traditional balsamic released to the market. Given that the traditional balsamic vinegar is only a relatively few years ago that if they trade, the consortium ABTM is an intelligent and sustained effort aimed at ensuring both the consumer and the producer, that the balsamic released to the market as "Traditional "this really is. In fact, cornerstone of the consortium is the finding by a tasting committee of the minimum requirements related to the actual properties of the Balsamic Vinegar. In this way, each associate producer sees its balsamic bottled directly from the consortium in standard bottles, ones designed by Giugiaro, a form of bulb, after which the consortium itself through its tasting committee has determined the suitability of the product. The consortium at a glance certify the level of vinegar so that if it is declared fit to be bottled under the two prizes: the white cap for the minimum 12 years of maturation and the gold cap for more than 25 extravecchio year minimum maturity. Of course, a balsamic Centennial will be bottled by the consortium that is, as always extravecchio a gold cap, because this is considered essential in the first place out the orthodoxy letting the manufacturer to reserve different prices depending on aging after the consortium has determined that the balsamic vinegar Traditional nevertheless considered the minimum requirements. The role of the consortium is not limited to this function of organoleptic test but extends its control on how to prepare in the balsamic vinegar factory, marking the barrels and pay constant attention to the correctness of the ingredients and procedures.
TABTM
The Consorzio Tutela Aceto Balsamico di Modena group around him several major producers of traditional balsamic vinegar, along with full autonomy, its own path of development and protection of the product together and sharing with other agencies that protect the different types of vinegar. Since its recent establishment has set itself the goal of ensuring traceability of the different steps, from raw materials, grapes, musts and through the cooking and seasoning, this traditional balsamic needs. In this way it not only effectively protect the continuity of product quality, will certify its authenticity in an absolutely clear and verifiable manner, allowing for traceability is the best guarantee for the consumer ever more demanding.
CPABM
The Consortium of Producers of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena has been established to promote protect and regulate the production of this specific Balsamic. As previously mentioned, the Balsamic Vinegar of Modena differed significantly from "traditional" for the profound difference between the systems of production, maturation and concentration of the must used. The development of disciplinary-specific production of this balmy, has not exhausted all instances of a large protected area induced by this consortium. A food production center that seeks to give a specific identity and self-respect of an existing and established history, which has already seen long as the same sort of ambassador Balsamic scale of the overall phenomenon of this type of acetic anhydride. In fact just the balsamic vinegar of Modena is the best known and consumed in the world, since the costs of implementation and maturation were significantly more viable than the traditional. The product will have that effect drawn on all types of Balsamic will, thanks to this institution, a value of paramount importance and in some ways necessary.
Coterie The Coterie Spilamberto born in 1969 with, among other purposes, to promote and to encode unambiguously the balm of tradition as well as Over the centuries we have been handed down. The need arose from the fact that traditional balsamic vinegar had no trade, and then each holder of vinegar produced it for personal use only, sometimes resorting to personal interpretations of the procedures required by the individual tastes. With the birth of the coterie there arises now several fundamental objectives: to
) Code the original procedure for the production of traditional balsamic vinegar in purity through a serious historical research;
b) promote a partnership that will revive the tradition through ' establishment of a prize among the members, which determine, through extensive tastings, a balsamic vinegar over each another, c) form a class of conductors in accordance with the tradition of vinegar and scrupulous rules of obtaining the precious liquid, d) training the assessors who will ensure the continuity of tradition, and) to promote at all times and all places in the knowledge and the continuity of traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena. Today, the Coterie is a constantly expanding as well as thousands of samples submitted last prize shows. His work is recognized by institutions and public associations placing it among the most important and meritorious associations of our territory, extending its fame beyond local boundaries, to get to have an echo in every place where we cultivate the love for tradition of questo elemento unico nella cucina mondiale
L’ASSAGGIO
Premettiamo per chiarezza che l’assaggio dell’aceto balsamico di solito si effettua principalmente in acetaia.
Chi assaggia l’aceto, in qualsiasi veste, comunque è anche un po’ giudice, e deve essere preparato:
corsi per assaggiatori di balsamico, vengono regolarmente organizzati, a cura per lo più, della consorteria di Spilamberto.
Questi sono fondamentali per l’avvio di un assaggiatore in quanto solo la pratica dell’assaggio di diversi aceti, consente di avere dei termini di paragone.
Per quantificare con la dovuta precisione e la dovuta sintesi, la bontà di un aceto balsamico, è stata developed by the coterie of balsamic vinegar and an evaluation board which gives you a mark out of numbers with any particular feature of vinegar, the sum of these votes gives the final result, this is a united opinion expressed in complementary letters , the maximum possible amount to 400 points.
We wanted to mention the tasting, trying to describe the guidelines, the method used by experts and masters of the coterie of the consortium approach to be followed faithfully, together with the experience, honing our skills, improving our ability to analyze and trial.
RECIPES
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INDIVIDUALITY 'OF BALSAMIC
completely natural product, the traditional balsamic maintains absolute individuality and may have different characteristics depending on the grapes used to produce grape departure of wood used for the manufacture of which has been aged in barrels, the aging time and weather conditions. It may be harsher or more rounded, more or less aromatic, thicker or smoother, more flavoursome or softer, more fruity or pungent ... it tasted from time to time, valued, enjoyed by itself and in relation to others ingredients that you want to use in the preparation of a dish. The wealth of gourmet balsamic, their prevalence can be compared to that of other commodities have done and make the culture of good food: truffles, foie gras, the salted pork, Parmesan cheese ... protagonists who do not admit their tastes overlap to give the best net with other flavors, simple ingredients, full-bodied and authentic, they create a game set of flavors that alternate and opposing enhance each other.
As often happens, the experts are divided on the use of balsamic vinegar in the kitchen. In general, the Modena is good on all types of salad and raw vegetables, and I agree with everyone. But some uses it on cooked vegetables, on boiled meat and eggs, still warm. More daring to add a few drops to pasta, risotto and roast, but still only on the plate ready. For the traditional, Ideally, the end of parmesan, but you can then pour a few drops on strawberries on ice cream, and groped the combinations according to personal taste, trying them on omelets, on the various fruits and sweets. Someone appreciates them even on the cheese. A special way to taste the traditional balsamic vinegar is a fine meal, in small quantities (it only takes a teaspoon as a digestive, like a liqueur).
Before introducing the recipes that we have chosen to present, we want to make a little note character gastronomic un'accortezza important during the preparation of hot dishes, is to add the balsamic vinegar, especially when used pure, in the final stage preparation, that is when the food is no longer under the influence of heat, so that it transmits to the best of its flavors and aromas typical and is not weakened excessively affected by chemical transformations with heating.
1) rice pudding with balsamic vinegar
(4 servings) 360 gr of rice
long-lasting firing
½ liters of broth,
40 g of parmesan cheese,
60 g butter or margarine, 400 g
asparagus,
1 dl of fresh cream, salt to taste
, 20 g
balsamic vinegar Peel the asparagus by removing the white and hard, cut into 1 cm pieces and pour into a pan where you have melted 30 gr di burro, insaporite con sale e lasciate cuocere a fuoco lento per 25 minuti circa, unendo la panna a metà cottura.
Cuocete il riso nel brodo, incorporandovi il parmigiano grattugiato a fine cottura, disponete analogamente amalgamandoli il riso cotto e gli asparagi negli stampini di alluminio monouso dalla forma ricordante gli stampi del budino, pressare il tutto delicatamente e passare in forno moderatamente caldo per 50 minuti, a fine cottura rovesciare il contenuto degli stampi su un piatto e versatevi il balsamico sulla sommità immediatamente prima di servire.
2) Gnocchetti di zucca con aceto balsamico
(per 4 persone)
400 gr di zucca pulita,
150 gr di farina,
100 gr di burro,
150 gr di parmigiano cheese, 2 eggs
,
to taste nutmeg, to taste
salt, 20 g
balsamic vinegar Cut the pumpkin into pieces and boil in lightly salted water to pass through a sieve or food mill and set it on a cutting board with flour and a pinch of salt.
Stir in the yolks of eggs, half the Parmesan and a pinch of nutmeg, work the ingredients in order to obtain a soft dough.
Roll out the dough and form many sticks of about 2 cm in diameter, cut into pieces about an inch and mash lightly with a fork.
then Cook the gnocchi in lightly salted boiling water, a few at a time pulling it gently with a slotted spoon soon after saranno venuti a galla; saltarli in una padella, lontana da fonti di calore, in cui avevamo precedentemente sciolto il burro e a cui aggiungeremo il parmigiano grattugiato e una parte di aceto balsamico, impiattare e servire aggiungendo il restante aceto a gocce.
3) Frittata al balsamico
(per 4 persone)
6 uova,
2 cipolle di troppa medie,
80 gr di parmigiano reggiano grattugiato,
q.b. olio di mais,
q.b. prezzemolo,
q.b. sale,
20 gr d aceto balsamico tradizionale.
Dorate in una padella con un po’ d’olio le cipolle tagliate a fettine; in una ciotola sbattere per bene le uova, unendo il parmigiano, il prezzemolo ed il sale. Scolate bene dall’olio la cipolla and add the beaten eggs mix well, pour the amalgam in a pan with a little oil already hot.
cooking will be fast, turn the pancake for the gilding on both sides, remove from heat and serve after it has been sprinkled with balsamic vinegar.
4) Sausage and
trotter with vinegar (serves 4) 1
not pre-cooked sausage of medium size,
a knuckle of pork,
1 stalk celery, 1 carrot
,
1 onion, salt to taste
,
20 g of balsamic vinegar
finely pierce the sausage with a fork, wrap it in wet gauze, tying the ends and let it soak a few hours before starting cooking in a pot to boil very slow for about 2 hours. Boil
apart from the knuckle of pork in a different pot with the vegetables and salt to taste, for about three hours.
Serve hot then all well, having cut the sausage into slices and divided the frolicking bathing everything with balsamic vinegar.
5) Parmigiano Reggiano and balsamic vinegar
get some good parmesan reggiano, aged 36 months, it flakes of irregular shape with a knife shape (drop),
soak it generously with balsamic vinegar in the first barrel of very aged over 25 years.
It is said that this is the best data association with other flavors from balsamic vinegar.
6) Strawberries with balsamic vinegar
mondare e lavare le fragole, si prestano bene sia le fragoline di bosco che le fragole comuni, se usiamo queste ultime sarebbe preferibile tagliarle a spicchi, zuccherare a piacere ed unire il balsamico denso tolto dal barile, mescolare scuotendo un recipiente chiuso. Servire nella tazzina eventualmente guarnendo con panna montata.
7) Gelato al balsamico
Servire il gelato alla crema, preferibilmente artigianale, in coppa di vetro, irrorando la sommità con il balsamico stravecchio oltre 25 anni.