Il passaggio da Medioevo ad Evo Moderno avviene con la scoperta dell’America il 12 ottobre del 1492; ma questa è una data riassuntiva, che poco influisce nell’immediato con i cambiamenti e gli sviluppi che questo enorme passo storico ha provocato nella cucina europea, ma soprattutto italiana col passare del tempo. Queste evoluzioni infatti, nella società e nella tecnica si manifesteranno e rispecchieranno con molta lentezza.
Fra i generi agroalimentari provenienti dal Nuovo Mondo che più hanno influito sul mutamento delle consuetudini nutritive vanno citati i fagioli, il mais, le zucche e zucchine, il peperone ed il peperoncino, il pomodoro, il cacao e le patate.
E’ inimmaginabile la cucina moderna senza questi prodotti, il cui impiego è però avvenuto con gradualità. Il fagiolo è il primo a diffondersi, cominciando da Roma, Firenze e alcune zone del bellunese.
Poi si registra l’esplosione dell’utilizzo del mais, chiamato dapprima “granturco”; a partire dalla seconda metà del ‘500, specie nel nordest e in pianura Padana, ma anche in altre zone d’Italia, viene coltivato sempre più intensivamente quando fu chiara la portata del suo valore alimentare: infatti con la farina di mais si ottenne un innovativo tipo di ottima polenta, e con la crusca si prepara un cibo molto nutriente per i maiali, ormai diffusi ed allevati con un notevole incremento delle possibilità food. The corn will really help the fight against hunger, especially in northern Italy, but precisely because of its high consumption-sometimes only food in the diet of whole families to take real-epidemics of pellagra in data historical moments in the Northeast Italian . In fact, diets consist largely of providing maize are deficient in niacin and its metabolic precursor, tryptophan, which prevent the absorption of some essential vitamins whose absence is manifested by dermatitis, diarrhea and, in advanced stages, dementia. With grains of corn and poultry feeds of all kinds, including turkeys, dall'oltreoceano newly introduced animals.
The potatoes were rather more difficult of engraftment in tastes and diets, pigs were considered food, as potatoes similar fate, in the medieval period, had already fallen to mushrooms and truffles.
Starting from 600 of the Italian regions, the food situation is very diverse in type and quality of products.
If the higher social classes have always been good availability of genres, not just for the poorest of the population, for which the welfare-in terms of nutrition, has increased very little over the centuries.
is reported in the homes of the people, a large amount of soup, a little pasta, very little rice-cultivated in Italy, mainly in the plain padanoveneta, dal ‘500 in avanti-, pesce d’acqua dolce, rane, lumache, qualche animali da cortile, carne di maiale, molte erbe spontanee ed ortaggi, polenta e, qualche volta, pane. Per le popolazioni rivierasche moltissimo pesce di mare, crostacei e molluschi.
In funzione dei diversi contesti storico-socio-geografici, questa situazione conosce anche momenti positivi e di maggior abbondanza, ma generalmente, la fame accompagnerà gli italiani fino alla metà del XX° secolo, fino a quando il cosiddetto “miracolo economico”, permetterà a tutti, o quasi, di accedere “alla bistecca”.
Il riso, arrivato come spezia, cominciò ad esser coltivato nella Pianura Padana alla fine del 1400 in Novara and Vercelli.
Cocoa, one of the greatest importance was the Florentine Francesco Carletti, was used as an element in the composition of a beverage, the first water-based and then with milk, which soon became the prerogative of the nobility.
In the following century, it was opposed to the coffee came from the colonies as typical drink of the bourgeoisie "and intellectually active" so that the "coffee shops" became a meeting place for artists, thinkers and revolutionaries during the French Revolution and throughout 1800. The chocolate drink
remained elitist, culturally as the noblest expression of the class. The tablet was born Switzerland in the late nineteenth century, following schools of chocolate will be born in Holland and in Turin, where it will be produced as Gianduja chocolate.
part of processed foods, an important role is played by speeches and stockfish salty. This type of food they saved Europe's population from starvation since the Middle Ages. In 1500, among the richer classes were used for stock-profits focused on long trips, suitable for transport and, where appropriate, soluble in water, this recipe came to the present day is extremely expensive and lengthy preparation. At the end of the last century, in Switzerland, two industrial food, Liebig and Maggi, they will prepare a similar product but much more affordable.
Since 400, many prominent chefs and restaurateurs operating in the Italian courts and mansions write and document much of their craft, resulting in abundant literature published very often, allowing posterity to know the cuisine practiced in different regions over the past five centuries.
Among the most significant authors remembers Mastro Martino da Como, Bartolomeo Sacchi, Teofilo Folengo, by Christopher Messisbugo, Scappi Bartolomeo, Domenico Romoli, Vincenzo Cervio, Bartolomeo Stefani, Giegher Mattia, Vincenzo Corrado, Francesco Leonardi, Ippolito Cavalcanti, John Vial , GiovanFelice Lura, Vincenzo ravioli, Pellegrino Artusi.
Their works are a true reflection of the evolution of national cuisine Italian and clearly show that there has never been a national Italian cuisine, but many local cuisines that are basically the extraordinary richness of the cuisine of our country, which has a large number of local, unknown to most people, so much kindness and elegance that deserved to be recognized by the international cuisine.
Among the restaurateurs and food writers, we track since 1200, can remember Catherine de 'Medici (Florence, 1519 - Blois, 1589): After a childhood spent in his native town, married In 1533 King Henry II of France. Dowry, besides the usual gifts, bring the beans to Paris, already known in Florence at the time, the parsley, dry and fresh pasta, duck cooked with orange, the carabaccia (onion soup), sugar and salt whitened. The use of Florentine whiten sugar was considered the best, so that the Queen Elizabeth the First convene an expert in Florence to the court to entrust the management of that business. Catherine will also introduce
pancakes and sweets made with almond paste: his court, as well as ladies and pages, will consist of a large number of cooks, confectioners and caterers. Among the habits of
refined Florentine Grand Ducal Court, was also introduced in the preparation of ice creams and sorbets. Inside the Palazzo Pitti in Florence, there are huge glaciers, designed by the great architect Buontalenti.
This event proved crucial in the events that led to the birth of the kitchen, more specifically the birth of French cuisine who found here the beginning of his journey. The cooks and confectioners who followed the school did, and this fact was admitted by the French themselves and Flammarion wrote: "We must recognize that Italian cooks who came to France of Catherine de 'Medici at the time of her marriage to Henry II, were the origin of French cuisine, for items and condiments, new for us, which they brought and from which the chefs of France (La Varenne, De Masseliet, Valet, De La Chapelle, Carême, Escoffier) \u200b\u200bwill draw so well that it will soon outpace their initiators. "[...]
In France the age of Enlightenment, in the early decades of the 700, flanked by a lively scientific and philosophical debate, there is a reform of the kitchen that, within a century, saw the extinction gastronomic civilization was intended as a first-anchored yet own rules and dogmas of the Middle Ages-and the birth of modern cuisine, or cuisine bourgeois.
What occurred was not so much a radical change in diet and techniques cooking, as the actual flavor: cooking meat, spices and strong flavors, artificial hybrids and was swept away by a kitchen that he found the food fresh. Was replaced with a taste for the "long and sophisticated baked" taste of the 'just turned and natural "rediscovered the vegetables, herbs, sharp boundaries of taste and delicate sauces.
In 1745, with the publication of Cousine bourgeoise of Menon, the adjective "modern" joins the adjective "bourgeois". The term, indeed, was not unknown to the culinary lexicon of the time in France, but whereas previously the "bourgeois cuisine" was interpreted as a country kitchen, regional and a bit 'rough, now the terminology is loaded with meaning polemic against declining food of nobility.
Pellegrino Artusi, the end of the last century, published his most famous Italian cookbook in the anthology: "The art of good food" is bringing together major regional recipes and approaches under the banner of the Kingdom of Italy. In the manual-as in other works of the period-the adjective "economic" replaces the "bourgeois" but it was veiled synonym, refers to an ethical food and culinary refusing "wasteful, extravagant and unusual splendor" (As annotated by Piero Camporesi Artusi in the preface of the reprint), in the name of a simple but tasty cuisine, not an end but balanced, reasonably healthy, practical and wise, forgetting the doe malnutrition of the masses is indeed openly classist (" meant well, "says Pellegrino Artusi," I wrote this I speak for the upper classes ").
This book is valuable for the knowledge of cooking by households "rich", not only in the 800 but also in the first 900. Very interesting are the notions of hygiene that the author includes in the introduction. There is also space in the text for a position contro le donne “pallide e diafane”, “di complessione nervosa”, con la preferenza assoluta di quelle “di prosperosa salute, le belle carnagioni tutto sangue e latte, le cicce sode”.
Sia per i grandi mutamenti storici che per le migliorie introdotte a livello tecnologico, il XX° secolo ha trasformato la società e con essa la cucina. La nascita dell’automobile consentì un più rapido spostamento per le persone e per le merci, ergo una diffusione più capillare dei prodotti agroalimentari su tutto il territorio, anche laddove prima era impensabile pretenderli freschi per motivi di tempo e costi. Nel 1900 esce la prima “Guida Michelin”, una pubblicazione nata in Francia, che puntava ad offrire ad i primi automobilisti gastronomi un prospetto di tutti i ristoranti di qualità presenti sul territorio. Più limitato rispetto alla Francia, anche in Italia si sviluppa un simile fenomeno; questo i viene testimoniato dalle varie pubblicazioni del periodo.
Bibliografia e sitografia - http://eugeenblog.blogspot.com/2010/06/bibliografia-e-sitografia.html
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